Monday, 1 September 2014

We´re Not Ones For Busting Through Walls

From Copacabana we take the bus and a ferry ride over Lake Titicaca to put us back on the road to La Paz.

Rather, we go on the ferry, our bus goes on a barge. This is normal, but disconcerting.

Our bus is somewhere back there in the distance...


Another Bolivian war hero. And some llamas.
A few miles out of La Paz and the road changes from scattered strands of shacks and cottages to a more steady stream of half-built shops, hotels, garages and assorted dwellings.

The High Street
Des res
It's a red-brick Deadwood, enough work for a million bricklayers for a thousand years.They love a brick wall - any spare land, get building - a house, a wall, four walls with nothing inside (a compound?), a pile of bricks neatly arranged. If you´re lucky, some electioneering squad will come and graffiti their candidate´s name all over your lovely work, and they are everywhere in South America!

Maybe finish the pavement at some stage?
When the election starts and ends, we still don´t know. It just feels like they are always a step away from the polling booth.
Where´s McDonald´s when you want one !?
People sit around in the dirt, dodge between the relentless stream of city-bound traffic, sell food along the murky canals behind the streets and on waste ground.

They seem quite happy, mind. There's a Pepsi plant and a Coca-Cola factory sitting colourfully shoulder-to-shoulder next to a petroleum company premises. Perhaps there's plenty of work and this is a boom town?

Descending into the city via the motorway, our bus hits Saturday rush hour, a vortex of honking traffic, winding slowly into the tight streets at its centre.

Now there's more of everything - people, buildings, noise, dogs, honking horns, grime. It's a little more claustrophobic, even by South American standards.

From the bus station, the taxi driver takes us on a pricey (£1.40!) two minute loop to our hotel and, we think, takes us for a ride.

So, first impressions of La Paz aren't great . Sit it out for a couple of days, then get out to Uyuni and the wide-open salt flats asafp...

6 comments:

  1. La Paz, twinned with Middlesbrough?

    Starting to make tentative plans for our Patagonia trip and wondering what we should take sleeping bag/mat wise? Tony reckons 3 season bags will suffice but thought I'd ask someone who's actually done the do. Wend managed to get a really bad back from 3 nights on an inferior sleeping mat at EOTR so we're happy to invest in something top notch, What do you reckon?

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    1. We used Vango sleeping mats - 20 quid from Amazon - the red full lengthers. Very pleased with them on rough ground. We've been humping them around since March and no bugger wants them. We'd leave them at the hostel in Santiago for you but chances are they'd go missing and that wouldn't be good.

      We also had a sleeping bag liner apiece.

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  2. Good stuff.

    I would concur with Tony - Kim had a 3 season and was very happy; I had a 2 season and had to use a Dragoman blanket now and then.

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  3. We can still mail you the mats if it's cheaper than re-buying them for next year's festival season. Then you could decide if you want them for South America.

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  4. Thanks for the info and offer Keith. Don't bother mailing them, I think that would be more bother that it's worth. Why not flog them at that massive market you visited? or trade them for a plate of beans or something.

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  5. A vintage EOTR this year by the way. Martin and his friend Sarah came, as did the usual suspects Keri, Tim, Ian, Lewis and Pete from Sheffield. Highlights: Flaming Lips (Wend got a hug from Wayne Coyle), St.Vincent, Drenge, Cold Specks and White Denim of course. We arrived early for their set and managed to get a spot leaning against the barrier. Maurice sends his regards. One disaster though, JCC played the big top and it was so mobbed we couldn't get in. You'd have been gutted.

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