Amazing Saddles

From Cali we bussed down to Popayan, another small colonial town which we used as a base for a couple of trips and adventures.

Fertility symbols, I expect.

A truck ride up to Coconuco and some very smelly hot springs, which Kim and Kiwi Douglas went in.

Disgusting.

His missus Hannah was preggers so had a great excuse not to take the plunge. I just stood in a far corner trying to stay downwind - it was rank.

Muncipal.

Then we jumped on our mountain bikes for a fantastic 30 kilometre ride, mainly down windy hills and hairpins back to our hostel, with hot chocolate, cheese and cheese scones en route. Apparently, it's a popular combination.  I'm not convinced, but they were nice separately.

Chocolate. And cheese?

Then it was on to San Agustin for three days away in the beautiful countryside.

Wide load.

Four hours over the hills, in the rain, in a packed mini bus, on what was largely a very potholed, muddy track, I am amazed we got there in one piece.

We were 'met' at the bus stop by Christian, who got us into a taxi to present his sales pitch (think Armstrong from Manaus). Anyway, it worked and we bought two great trips and a bus transfer from him...

The Parque Archeologique was a fascinating site, which we were guided around by Marino, a lovely local man.

This face is very familiar... ?

Members only (look closely).

 The park comprised three main areas where tombs and stone sculptures had been buried (and later excavated) under barrows.  Mainly representing gods, guardians, mythical animals and shamen, some dated back to 3,300 BC.

As the similar Stonehenge story goes, no one knew who put them there or where they went to, as the tribe (or clan) disappeared from history, not having written anything down to give us a clue, the useless buggers.

God knows what they'll do if they win the damned thing.

Back in town we caught the Colombia-Ivory Coast game. Cue a town full of men, women and children on scooters, cars and trucks going around in convoy for several hours with horns blaring, vuvuzelas hooting, flags waving and general hysteria.

Meanwhile I was trying to watch the England-Uruguay debacle. It's a good job they didn't understand what I was screaming at the TV. It might have taken the shine of their celebrations.

That night, staying at out-of-the-way idyll Hostel de Japones, we were treated to a late-night droning-on session by a bunch of stoned Antipodeans above us until 3am. No sleep til 4.

Hostelier Libardo.

Next day we were in the saddle for a six hour horse ride around the farms and fields in the area, again with Marino as our expert guide.

We lost a horse at one stage and I stuck my finger into a barbed wire, but otherwise it was an incredible day out in the country, particularly at Chaquira, where we experienced unbeatable views of the valleys and rivers below us.

Than it was back to Popayan on the same road, in the same conditions, this time entertained by some cute little local girls who were fascinated by Kim and me. We didn't know why, and they weren't telling.

Ipiales tomorrow, Ecuador by Tuesday...


San Agustin >>>

Parque Archeologique - UNESCO site

Popayan >>>